Waikiki

Back home in San Diego I am a reluctant surfer. I snowboarded for years when I lived in Oregon and I really liked it. This last time in Utah I went I took right back to it. But I really just surf here because I live in that kinda of area and it is a thing to do here. No snow, then surf. So I do.

If it is overhead or anything I don't go out. On the other hand if it is glassy and small I don't bother either. I started up again with my friend Scott W. since he was new to so-cal and wanted to go. So I seem to go about 3 times a month now, cold or not. Normally I am just so-so and not really into it. But going more often with him has made a difference, building up an experience base.

So here on Oahu at Waikiki beach it was pretty easy to just jump on a rental board and paddle out. I caught more waves in a hour here than I do in a month back home. I also had longer rides and was able to turn a little bit more and such. When I was done, in the vernacular, I was "stoked".

I didn't take any pictures of this trip, but here is something from a trip to Costa Rica. Just to give you an idea of me on a surf board. The guy who doesn't know how to swim...........